Backpacking In California - June 2006, Part 1

Vince and I flew to L.A. to visit with Scott and Noel for a few days. We met Noel's friend, Thomas who was passing through L.A. on his way to Thailand and points beyond. After a few days of relaxing L.A. sytle, we took Scott (in his car) to Yosemite to go backpacking. Scott had never been backpacking before so I told him I would go easy on him. I only had a 30-mile trip planned but I figured we'd take it slow over about 4 days. Slow, as in...make sure we covered the necessary miles per day, but take plenty of breaks along the way - just make sure we made it to our camping area before dark.

We spent our first night at Wawona in Yosemite. We hiked to the Mariposa Grove to visit the Grizzly Giant. This is a Giant Sequoia tree, the largest tree by volume in the world. The Grizzly Giant is thought to be 2,700 years old! In addition to Giant Sequoias growing so old, they only grow in about 75 isolated groves on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevadas between the elevations of 3,500 to 5,000 feet. They rely on low intensity fires to germinate their cones. The bark is so thick (up to 2 feet!) that fire rarely ever severely damages a Sequoia. Amazingly, these giants have shallow roots - which is a good reason to stay away from the trees so that you don't compact the soil and damage the roots! Imagine, shallow roots anchoring something so tall and massive!

Scott brought along his water color/sketch pad and chronicled our entire trip. He's a very good watercolorist. As he would sketch or paint, people would stop by and look over his shoulder; offering him compliments. Vince and I joked about starting a scam where we would act like we didn't know Scott, then we'd walk up once a crowd amassed, and then offer him money for his art. Then maybe other people would pay him...and that would pay for the gas to go on this vacation (at $3.80 to $4.09 a gallon, we needed help)!
In preparation for our backpacking excursion, we rented bear canisters. These are required in most of Yosemite and recommended in all of Yosemite. The black bears have become wise to the follies of humans and our processed, easily accessible food. Warnings are posted all over Yosemite telling people to place food and other scented items in the bear boxes located at all campsites and parking areas. When backpacking, a bear canister is required. It's big, bulky and adds plenty of weight to your pack. But in my opinion, it is well worth the $5 rental fee. We transferred all our freeze-dried food into ziplock bags, eliminated any trash beforehand, and we were able to fit all our stuff into the canister. It actually helped us become more organized.

As we were travelling to our trailhead for the 30-mile killer hike (loop), Scott came up with a better route that cut some distance and heartache off the trip. Instead of starting our hike in the Valley at the 4-mile trail (which sounds brutal), he decided we should start at Glacier Point. This still meant that once we reached the end of our trip, we would have to hike into the Valley to catch a shuttle and ride it back to Glacier Point, or take the 4-mile trail back to the car. But it at least gave us some options.

Even before we could start hiking, Scott pulled his sketch pad out and documented the fabulous view from Glacier Point. It was breath-taking I do admit. So I rested, even before we put forth any exertion on our hike, while Scott documented. Once we finally started hiking we saw even more beautiful vistas. In fact, that is the reason I chose the Pohono Trail. I figured if we were in Yosemite, we should see all the highlights we could from the trail. We were not disappointed. The views made the physical suffering worth it (although the hiking wasn't terrible-strenuous).

(continued on "Backpacking in California - June 2006, Part 2")

Belize 2006 - part 2

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We went snorkeling with nurse sharks and stingrays. That was really neat. Now I can officially use the mafia term “swimming with the sharks!” We got completely baked – to the point that it hurt too much to even think about snorkeling on another day. We didn’t want to use sunscreen because we were concerned with polluting the water – especially swimming around the reefs and its inhabitants. I guess that’s the price we had to pay.

Caye Caulker used to be a reef. In fact, that's how some islands are formed. A reef builds up with dead & alive life forms. Eventually it surfaces, some mangrove trees grab hold and begin to grow, detritus and soil/sand are laid down and voila! a barrier island is born.

So we spent the rest of our time laying in hammocks, riding bikes, sitting on the beach, looking at the plants…
We rented bikes, just for fun, because we actually didn't need them in order to get around the island - seeing how the only portion of the island we needed to travel was only a mile in length. And, Caye Caulker is only about 1/4 of a mile wide! As a note, CC is actually two islands now because Hurricane Hattie split it in two. The northern half has no electricity, etc. and is only inhabitated by Rastafarians (as far as I could tell). The spit isn't too wide, but the few people who live on the northern portion take a shuttle boat across in order to buy and trade goods. These two pictures were taken at the spit. Look further down this entry for an aerial photo of Caye Caulker and the spit (in the center of the island). It is interesting to see where the development is, and also to note that at least half of the island retains native habitat.

One day, we took the ferry over to Ambergis Caye to San Pedro. It was not impressive. Very busy with all the golf carts zipping around. And loads of tourists - such as ourselves! It still retains a bit of island charm, but seems to probably be losing a lot of it with the hectic urbanish lifestyle. We didn't stay there long. Just long enough to walk around a bit and eat lunch. We were very glad when we made it back to "home" Caye Caulker. (Vince on the ferry returning to CC).

Although CC probably can't claim sunsets as good as Tucson, Arizona, they can claim some good sunrises. Vince and I woke up at dawn in order to catch a sunrise for our memory banks! We were actually cold. The temperature was around 60-65 degrees. What can I say...we're wimps!

As time neared for our departure - and a return to our "real world," we tried to soak up every bit of CC that we could. We stayed out most of the day just walking around the island. We splurged for a nice dinner by candlelight and a late night walk on the beach.
When it came time for us finally to depart, we put our backpacks on, and walked to the airport. I wish it were that easy at home! We followed the beach path to the airport and caught a jungle plane back to the Belize City International Airport. The flight was interesting because we could see the reefs, the layout of Caye Caulker, and finally the mainland.

I found it very interesting also to view the land use patterns on the mainland. Lots of jungle areas around Belize City have been cleared out for development or agriculture. Luckily, conservation is a high priority for the Belizean government. Forty percent of the country is protected, and their population is small enough right now, which keeps development pressures low. Let's hope that Belize can continue to place a priority on conservation and ecotourism.

Belize 2006 - part 1

Vince, myself and my father took a trip to Belize. We had been wanting to go there for several years but kept putting it off. In my father's youth, he travelled extensively in Central America. Now in his older years, he would like to go to some of the countries that he missed. We were happy to oblige. We've travelled to Europe, Scandanavia, Canada, Mexico & across the US. Plus Vince has travelled alone to Nepal, Australia and India. Now we would like to focus on travels far south of our border.

Finally we decided to stop talking and start travelling! We set out in January 2006. I am an avid birder, which was the main reason I wanted to go to Belize. Vince and my father were more interested in the archaeology. Of course we were all interested in that, as well as the culture and natural beauty of Belize.

I located a lodge in a small fishing village called Crooked Tree. It caters mostly to birders and ecotourists. Crooked Tree (CT) is 33 miles north of Belize City but it is a world away! The village sits on a lagoon that is the prime place for water and shore birds, as well as neotropical migrants and resident passerines. CT didn't even have road access to Belize City until 1984 when the causeway was built. Before that time, people made the trip by boat.

CT is a completely walkable village. People do have cars but there are not too many. People mostly walk, ride a horse, or take a boat. There is only 1 policeman and I think he must mostly be bored...which is a good thing! I doubt there is much crime there because the people living in the village all know each other, are family, and/or are friends.

We stayed at the Bird's Eye View Lodge, tucked away on the edge of the village on the shores of the lagoon. Verna & her brother Lenny were excellent hosts. Every evening we had delicious home-cooked meals prepared by Stephanie and her staff. (We could have eaten every meal there but we aren't used to eating 3 meals a day!). Verna kept us entertained with colorful and funny stories. Lenny impressed us with his knowledge of the local flora and fauna - especially the birds. (The birding in Belize is amazing...such diversity...and they're everywhere!) Everyone at the lodge and in the village were beyond friendly. It was like we had known each other for years.

We took a 30 mile boat ride up the New River to Lamanai, one of the longest occupied Mayan sites - 3,000 years. The boat zigzagged and wove along the river. It was beautiful scenery through jungle habitat.

We passed Cohune palm forests and marsh areas. Along the way, we stopped to look at crocodiles and turtles sunning themselves upon the logs. The boat dodged in and out of rain showers but we dried quickly.

Our arrival at Lamanai lagoon was dramatic because of the view of the Mayan ruins pushing up through the tall tropical broadleaf forest trees (aka jungle). From out in the lagoon, we could see a jabiru stork nest. It was the size of a Volkswagon! These birds are the largest flying bird in the Americas. They stand 5 feet tall and have wingspans of 10 to 12 feet! Lamanai means "submerged crocodile" in Mayan. The site was occupied as early as 1500 BC. Mayans lived here until the arrival of the Spainards in the 16th century.

We walked around Lamanai, saw howler monkeys - but I couldn't get a good picture...bummer. When we reached the Lag Temple, we were crazy enough to climb it. It wasn't so bad climbing up the steep temple and the views were spectacular across the jungle. However, after seeing the views that the Mayan people saw, the climb down became a reality!

It was a nerve-racking experience. We needed total concentration. I tried not to look down past my feet or to look around to the sides.

One slip could have sent us tumbling to the earth like a sacrafice gone awry! And if we were alive after the fall, we probably would die before we were rescued & taken to Belize City.

When our feet touched the earth again and we gazed nearly vertically up at where we just descended from, we were grateful for the experience and grateful to be down safely.

On the boat ride back, we passed by the Mennonite farming community of Shipyard. The Mennonites provide most of the dairy and chicken for all of Belize. We also passed traditional fishermen in dugout canoes which were gently gliding along the water surface - until we came along.

When we reached Orange Walk, Lenny picked us up and took us on a short tour through the town and to look at the sugar cane factory - which is the only one now open in the entire country - hence the long lines of trucks waiting to drop off their cane. The country is divided into 4 districts and each is assigned a specific time to deliver/drop off the sugar cane. Trucks would wait in line up to a week to unload! Drivers either sleep in their trucks or leave the trucks parked in line and get a ride back to their home; then come back in a week.

Back in CT, Vince and I did a lot of birding and even visited with the village crocodile - who's been accused of eating the village chickens! One day we hired a local man and his horses and took a 3 mile horseback ride through the outskirts of CT. Although there was hardly an elevational climb, there was a noticeable change in habitat from the jungle forest & lagoon to the pine forests. The difference of plant communities is due to the soil type.

The horseback riding was enjoyable (although I'm not much of a horse person). I was trying to bird from horseback and it wasn't going too well. As soon as I would see a bird and pull my binoculars up, the bird would be gone and I'd be bouncing on down the gravel road. Oh well. By the end of the ride, my "bum" was very sore and I could hardly walk. I had to use the rest of the afternoon to relax, visit with Vince and my father, look at birds - from a stationary position! - and finally try bird watching from a canoe. (I never give up!)

Yet again, not a good idea if you actually want to identify the birds instead of a blob. But we did have one really cool close encounter. We came within 5 feet of a Common Black Hawk perched atop a mangrove. We were able to sneak up on it with the canoe. The canoe route we took was actually a 2-track road during the dry season, but during the wet season it floods and becomes a boat lane.

We left Crooked Tree and took a ferry to Caye Caulker - a sleepy island village that sees far fewer tourists than it's twin Ambergis Caye. On the ferry ride there, it began to rain. Our rain gear was packed away and not accessible. The ferry attendant handed out a tarp for each side of the boat. We each had to hold it above our heads (just like the parachute game we played in elementary school)!

When we arrived at Caye Caulker, we had no idea of where to stay. We started walking along the main street. The island is only about 4 miles long and the main area for accomodations is only about 1 mile long, so we weren't too worried about walking. We just knew that if we walked toward the end of the island, we'd find more secluded accomodations. We took a beach trail through an old cemetery (where we saw an iguana sunning itself every day upon a tombstone) and followed it to the hotel we eventually selected.

The birding was not too exciting on Caye Caulker but I did see Brown Pelicans, which I always find to be a treat.

Again, on Caye Caulker, we took things slow and relaxed. Nobody moves fast on this island anyways...why would they? There are just a few cars. There is no need to have a car. I can't figure out why anyone would want one. People either walk or ride a bike. A few people drive around on golf carts but not many (on Ambergis Caye - San Pedro, too many people use golf carts and it's a mess and quite annoying. Sadly, it's hard to be a pedestrian there). On Caye Caulker, they do use a mini-fire engine and it seems like it works well for the structures there. I was so taken with the mini-fire engine that I basically chased it around for days until I had a good photo opportunity.

On the islands, they transport and deliver bottled water, cokes, etc. using a tractor.

And trash collection is done by entrepreneurs who ride bikes around (note the individual plastic grocery bags filled up with trash).

Every house has a rain water catchment system. Although they get quite a bit of rain (as compared to where we live), I'm sure they ration their water.

School-aged kids went to the Catholic school. Everyday after school, the back streets would be busy with uniformed kids walking home. No need for buses or parental escorts on Caye Caulker. All seems safe. The police (only saw 2 of them) rode bicycles and weren't carrying firearms.

We spent our time on the island just strolling around and taking things slow. Every angle is a photo op on CC. The blue water, the island vegetation, the buildings, the friendly people...

Continue on to "Belize 2006 - part 2."